About the farm

How and when to plant wild grapes on the fence

Why plant wild grapes if there is barely enough space on the plot for varietal, cultural? This question disappears by itself when a hedge of primordial wildness and power, which has enough strips of land near the fence, to shelter the roots, appears to the eye. And nothing more - no room for growth, no soil fertility.

However, a large section, the division into zones by pergolas and walls of climbing crops is even more necessary. And wild grapes for this purpose is most welcome.

Characteristics and description of wild grapes

In the wild grapes conquers at first sight leaf beauty. In the summer they are deep green, in the spring and in the fall they are all shades of red (from pale and dark pink to maroon).

Climbing shoots: vine clings to the frame or climbs up the branches on the trees, clinging to the suction tendrils.

They are the main tool for assault on the peaks, because the wall of leaves is holding tightly to all the significant mass even on an absolutely smooth vertical wall.

Different types and varieties of wild grapes are whipped out over the season up to 5 meters or more, the total length of the shoots can reach more than one ten meters. Landscapers are widely used for decorating the facades of residential buildings and other buildings.

Girlish grapes as a gazebo decoration

The draping of imitations of castles, as well as pergolas, arbors and other landscape gardening constructions is no exception.

Wild grape varieties to plant on the fence

The culture is a deciduous liana of liana with all the distinctive and useful qualities characteristic of the Vinogradov family.

  • Leaves Pyatispecific (virginian) type of maiden grapes are finger-composite, of five leaf plates with a leathery glossy (but not glossy) surface and serrate-toothed edge. Each leaf plate of an oval shape is connected in the center with a common petiole. Therefore, in the period of leaf fall, the leaf disappears from the shoot either entirely or segment-by-segment.
  • Have Triostra (Ivy) type of leaf blades whole. Deep cuts cut through the plate incompletely, making it look like a three-toed footprint of a waterfowl with narrow membranes.

The flowers of both species are collected in loose brush, small, pyatilepestkovye, the color of tea with milk or lighter, not of aesthetic value. But during the flowering period, bees continuously circle around the wall of girlish grapes, creating an atmosphere of comfort and peace around them.

At the end of the summer, black berries are tied up with a bluish "foggy" bloom - a loose brush is formed. Tart taste berries, inedible for humansbut loved by birds.

Why plant

Sometimes, on the plot, wild grapes appear suddenly and from nowhere. This birds sow the seeds around. But more often it is planted consciously for beauty and benefit.

Any kind of beauty is suitable for beauty. Particularly decorative variety of girlish grapes "Star shovers"with a marble white and green color of leaves, at the end of the season changing to a mosaic of different shades of pink and red.

As for the benefits, the wild varieties are indispensable for weaving fences that go out into the street with heavy traffic.

Such a wall protects:

  • from dust and wind;
  • from noise;
  • from someone else's annoying curiosity.

And absolutely no matter what land is under the fence - Any culture will do.

Especially beautiful Star Shawers

The grapes are full of primitive wildness, vitality and power. Therefore has low fertilizer requirements: not fed - will provide itself. And so much so that without limiting pruning, spreading along the surface of the earth and rooting, is able to capture a huge space.

The growth of the culture should be strictly limited, giving the shoots to grow exclusively up or braid basis. Anything extra is subject to pruning.

How and when to plant - in spring or autumn

To plant wild grapes are suitable both spring and autumn. The question of lighting is not fundamental, but in a sunny place the foliage is thick and colored brighter.

  • Liana will increase the mass - and the old support will collapse under it. Therefore, it should create a strong frame or use a dried tree with the same potion. Liana does not hurt a living tree, but it will reach the roof along the growing one near the house and fit under it.
  • It is important to immediately approve the border, within which the bushes grow - a strip for which the shoots and roots should not be allowed.
For planting is best to use cuttings with 3-5 buds

Spending time planting seeds is not worth it. At the new place it is better to use 3-5 buds, if you wish to extend the liana further - make a cutting in the right direction, prikopav lashes and leaving the top.

Landing

Cutting the semi-woody cuttings or offspring of the roots, they are placed in the groove for planting or reproduction into the groove about 2 cm at a distance of about 1m; having covered it with earth and lightly stamped it, they generously pour it over. Pre-rooting in the water is unnecessary.

For 1-2-year-old seedlings, a layer of drainage and a couple of handfuls of ash or superphosphate are poured at the bottom of the planting fossa. Then - abundant watering.

Further care is to:

  • preventing the soil from drying out;
  • weeding;
  • pouring soil over bared roots;
  • pruning.

Even the first wintering virgin grapes tolerates well, when frosting grows easily.

Watering developed plants need only drought, rather 10 liters per bush no more than 3-4 times per season. There is no need to apply additional fertilizing after planting; if desired, it can be mixed into the soil of furnace ash in autumn.

Timely pruning is one of the main elements of wild grape care.

Both varieties mold and other diseases are not susceptible. In case of infestation by aphids (an extremely rare phenomenon), it is flushed from the leaves with a powerful jet of a hose or sprayed with greens with a ready-made insecticide.

Departure after disembarkation

Question haircuts-trimming - the main care for grapes-savage. Freed, he will be a scourge not only for the owners, but also for the dacha neighbors, having no idea what bans are.

In the planting season, "admonition" is necessary - patient non-lumbering shoots with a curious mustache in the right direction: on the grid or frame. Everything growing down rises, reaching at stubborn refusal to cling - tied up.

By force, the antennae torn off from the wrong place again will not stick, therefore it is more expedient to remove the shoot, or use it to breed.

The general principle of forming is overshoot or overshoot. A kidney is selected from which the growth of the lash should continue, and the cut is made at a height of not more than 5 mm from it.

When the grounds and the body of the hedge are formed, only the pruning of excess branches and spring pruning performed throughout the season remain; this is a question of hygiene of the shrub.

Fear of ruining grapes by an overly radical haircut is groundless - even the cut-off “on the stump”, it will grow thanks to the powerful and numerous fan-spreading roots. Therefore, to start a culture is much easier than to get rid of it.

It is necessary to get rid of the berries before they fall off - their sprouted seeds will give thickening plant growth.

Parthenocissus sleeps for a long time, and after winter it is just a grid of bare, densely intertwined "wires" next to the prettier, already green neighbors. But, since the end of April, it is rapidly becoming overgrown, trimmed with care and care, it is the best decoration for the performance, called country life or vacation in a country villa.